How to check caulk, handrails and door hardware

A hand holding a screwdriverMaintenance

Once a year, walk the house and press on every caulk joint, shake every handrail and try every door. Replace caulk when it's cracked or pulling away. Tighten loose screws. A stair rail should sit 34 to 38 inches high under model code, so call a carpenter if it won't stay firm.

Systems
Time
1–2 hrs
Cost
Varies; caulk and basic tools
Who
DIY, carpenter for rails that won't stay tight
When
Once a year

When to replace caulk and check rails and hardware

No code sets a calendar for this. A yearly lap catches most problems, and a few spots deserve more attention.

WhatWhenWhy then
Tub, shower and sink caulkYearly, and whenever you see a gapThese joints stay wet
Exterior window and door caulkYearly, before the wet or cold seasonSun and movement open cracks
Handrails and grab barsYearly, and if one ever moves under your handA rail has to hold in a fall
Door knobs, hinges, strike platesYearlyScrews back out with use
Exterior door weatherstrippingYearly, before heating seasonDrafts and water get in at gaps

What you need to replace caulk and tighten door hardware

  • Screwdrivers and a hex key set
  • Utility knife or caulk removal tool, plus a plastic scraper
  • Caulk labeled for the job: kitchen and bath for wet areas, exterior for outside
  • Caulk gun, rags and rubbing alcohol for a clean surface
  • Tape measure for rail height
  • Longer screws for hinges that have pulled loose

Read the tube for cure time. Most caulk needs to dry before water touches it, so do showers at a time when nobody needs them.

Hand holding a folding multi-tool with its hex keys fanned out
Keep screwdrivers and a hex key set handy for the hardware check.

How to replace caulk and fix a loose handrail

  1. Start at the wettest room

    Press each caulk joint with a fingernail. Mark any spot that's cracked, gummy, pulling away or dark.

  2. Cut out the bad bead

    Slice along both edges and peel the whole length out. A new bead won't stick to old caulk or to mold.

  3. Clean and dry the joint

    Scrape off residue, wipe with rubbing alcohol and let the gap dry fully. Let the shower sit unused first if the wall is damp.

  4. Run one even bead

    Cut the nozzle small, fill the gap in one pass and smooth it with a wet finger. Leave it alone for the full cure time on the tube.

  5. Shake every rail

    Pull on each stair rail and grab bar at each bracket. Tighten what's loose, and stop if a screw keeps turning without gripping.

  6. Work the doors

    Open and close each door. Tighten hinge and strike plate screws, then use longer ones if a hole has stripped.

  7. Finish outside

    Look over window and door joints. Leave small weep slots at the bottom of frames open, since the window industry warns never to seal them.

Warning signs behind bad caulk or a loose handrail

Most of what you'll find is a cheap fix. These findings point to something behind the surface:

  • Soft or stained drywall, tile that moves, or a musty smell near a tub. Water may already be in the wall.
  • Mold that keeps coming back or covers more than about 10 square feet, roughly a 3-by-3-foot patch. EPA says to consider a pro at that size, and to get one if you suspect hidden mold.
  • A rail bracket that spins or pulls out of the wall. The screw has probably lost its grip in the framing.
  • A door that binds or leaves a new gap at the top. If that happens at several doors, ask a pro to look for settling.
  • Peeling paint on window trim in a home built before 1978. Assume it may contain lead and don't dry sand it.

Dry any wet area quickly. EPA advises drying water-damaged materials within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Dark patches of mold spreading across a pale wall
Mold that keeps coming back points to water behind the surface.

Stair handrail height and when to hire a pro

Tightening hardware and replacing a bead of caulk are good first-year jobs. Hire out anything that holds a person's weight and won't stay fixed. That includes stair rails, guards on decks and balconies, and grab bars.

These numbers come from the model residential code, as printed in a City of Boise handout. Your state or city may differ, and older homes may have been built to earlier rules. Use them as a guide, not a pass or fail.

Handrail checkModel code figure
When requiredAt least one side of stairs with four or more risers
Height above the stair nosing34 to 38 inches
Gap between rail and wallAt least 1½ inches
Round rail diameter1¼ to 2 inches

If your rail falls outside these numbers, ask your local building department or a licensed carpenter what applies before you change it. A wobbly rail on a stair in daily use is worth fixing this week.

Staircase with a wooden handrail and iron balusters in a bright entry hall
A wobbly rail on stairs you use every day is worth fixing soon.

When to replace caulk and other common questions

How often should you recaulk a shower?

There's no fixed interval. Check it yearly and replace it when you see cracks, gaps or mold that won't clean off.

How high should a stair handrail be?

The model residential code calls for 34 to 38 inches, measured straight up from the line of the stair nosings. States and cities can change this, so check with your local building department.

Can I caulk over old caulk?

It's better not to. New caulk bonds poorly to old caulk and traps any mold underneath, so remove the old bead and clean the joint first.

Sources: cityofboise.org, EPA, bdcnetwork.com

General guidance for U.S. homes, not professional advice. For gas, electrical and structural work, call a licensed pro.